Discovering Durham: big, small, old and new

As I departed Durham after a busy three days, I reflected on how many boxes had been ticked whilst visiting the county: convenient hotel close to all the attractions with easy coach parking; passionate, knowledgeable people who understood how to welcome groups; a varied mix of attractions all within a short distance and a fantastic guide.

Returning with groups was inevitable, even after our first afternoon, such was the immediate impression. The grey weather and wet conditions were an irritant but didn’t detract from the enjoyment and benefits of sampling what can be discovered.

Much can be tailored too, with one of the key messages being the flexibility and variety of options available to group bookers. From private tours to lunches and afternoon teas, building a memorable itinerary is easy. In fact, the only thing to ponder is how long to visit for, given how much you can see and do.

I arrived at the Park Head Hotel, just outside Bishop Auckland, and met up with GTOs and coach tour operators, all eager to start exploring. There we were welcomed by Sarah Johnson of Visit County Durham and introduced to our Blue Badge Guide, Anna Unger of Northern Secrets.

The Auckland Project

The Auckland Project is a regeneration charity that is transforming Bishop Auckland and the surrounding area, with huge investment into attractions such as Auckland Castle and businesses, including the Park Head Hotel. Jonathan Ruffer, who founded the project, has ploughed millions of pounds into it and it has also received support from the National Lottery Heritage Fund.

As we pulled up at Bishop Auckland Market Place, the regeneration was evident. Auckland Tower, which opened in 2018, immediately captures your attention. Its 15-metre-high viewing platform offers a great outlook and there is a free exhibition about the town’s history on the ground floor.

The centre of town was quiet but quaint and it was easy to park and walk to the attractions. Bishop Auckland was awarded the Confederation of Passenger Transport’s ‘Coach Friendly’ accreditation earlier this year, in recognition of its commitment to coach tourism.

“We’ve had the most wonderful experience; we’ve been to places we haven’t been before. I would certainly bring a group and quite likely next year – I’ve already made enquiries.”

Margaret Thorpe, Knowle & Sevenoaks U3A

It was a short stroll to Auckland Castle, once the seat of the Prince Bishops of Durham and a reminder of how much power was afforded to them by the Norman Kings of England. The castle reopened in 2019 after a three-year restoration programme and has a story that stretches almost 1,000 years. The Auckland Project’s team provided a warm welcome and led us past the Walled Garden, one of three new gardens to open this year. The Great Garden will follow in 2025, as will a garden-focussed tour option.

St Peter’s Chapel is magnificent and as we made our way through the various rooms we saw the Zurbarán paintings and a link to the Spanish Gallery close by (like many of the stories we heard over the course of the weekend, it’s a good one). What may surprise some is that Auckland Castle is now also home to the Faith Museum, which opened last year and has a remarkable collection of treasures and objects that tell the story of how faith has shaped lives and communities. It is an exceptional attraction with changing exhibitions, guided and curator tours.

Nearby and back on the Market Place was the Spanish Gallery, which opened in 2021, in possibly the most surprising place to find the UK’s first gallery dedicated to the art and culture of the Spanish Golden Age. There are masterpieces by the likes of El Greco and Murillo across four floors inside two magnificent Grade II listed buildings.

The variety of our afternoon continued across the road at the small and rather wonderful Mining Art Gallery which was the first attraction to open as part of The Auckland Project in 2017. It showcases not only works from the mining communities but art from those who worked in the mines themselves.

Organising a group visit through The Auckland Project means you can arrange a meet and greet on arrival, take advantage of group savings, and enjoy a number of catering options. I urge you to read more about the project, it is quite remarkable with more to come, including Binchester Roman Fort later this year. The hope is that investment from The Auckland Project will attract more businesses into the town and local area. It is a long-term project, evident from some empty shops in the centre, but progress is being made and the potential is very exciting.

It is hard to believe we did all of this in an afternoon, but there was still time for a small showcase of local attractions back at the hotel and a well-earned evening meal at Park Head Hotel.

“It’s been absolutely brilliant. I really enjoyed Kynren and Beamish was a pleasant surprise… I’m pretty certain I’ll be bringing a group back.”

Neil Edeson, Surrey Trips

A new chapter for a castle and a huge museum

Our second day began with a short coach journey to Raby Castle, built by the powerful Neville family in the 14th century.

Our guide, Nick shared a number of stories and explained why the oldest piece of furniture in this Medieval castle is from the early 18th century. As we took the tour we saw priceless paintings by Reynolds and Van Djik in the Dining Room, but it was the Baron’s Room that I was most struck by; it is quite something at 132-feet-long and is said to be the biggest single room in a private residence in England.

What was particularly exciting about our visit was being able to see The Rising, the biggest restoration project at Raby Castle for decades which has brought a host of new features and attractions. The Walled Garden has been reimagined, while the Vinery Restaurant adds a stylish and airy recreation of the historic glass house with private spaces for groups.

Previously hidden from view, iconic heritage buildings have been opened up with the Coach House and Stables boasting original 18th century features and now telling the story of the castle’s history as well as introducing the sights, sounds and landscapes of the estate. There is also a small retail space.

A new coach park is due to open and the flow down into The Rising will be a great introduction to the visitor experience. I would recommend visiting the small exhibition space prior to walking down to the castle.

We could have stayed at Raby longer but it was time for another ‘wow’ moment as we pulled up at the Bowes Museum at Barnard Castle. Now this is a town made rather infamous by a previous advisor to former Prime Minister, Boris Johnson (I was told that tourists take photos outside Specsavers), but the museum is the undoubted star.

It is as if you have been transported to France as you look up at a building more akin to a palace, packed full of incredible collections of art, design, textiles and ceramics. The story of its founders is as remarkable as its galleries, and we even got to see the ‘Silver Swan Performance’.

Our readers enjoyed a tasty afternoon tea (groups can book) in one of the museum’s palatial spaces over-looking the gardens. For art enthusiasts, in particular, this is a museum you can truly lose yourself in and, as a group, you will be well looked after with various tours and talks available.

Later, we took a scenic drive through the Pennines National Park, then had a little time at the hotel before a fantastic tapas dinner at El Castillo at the Spanish Gallery in Bishop Auckland.

Show time with Kynren

The weather was not kind throughout a large portion of our weekend so I can confirm that you can enjoy Durham in all weathers and at any time of year. One of the biggest reasons many people visit in the summer is Kynren. The show has a cast and crew of 1,000 volunteers who create a very special show on a seven-and-a-half-acre-stage. Plus, the Viking Village returned this year and is a fun walk-through before you go into the arena and take your seats.

Kynren was voted Best Event for Groups in 2023 by readers of Group Leisure & Travel, Kynren is produced by 11Arches, sister charity to The Auckland Project. The first season was back in 2016 and since then Kynren (which means ‘generations’) has grown.

Its scale and production are spectacular, but it is the volunteers of all ages that make it truly special as they tell a range of stories across 2,000 years of history in front of 8,000 people. One reader event got a hug from a security guard on the way out and was asked, “are you coming back” and “what do you think of the show”.

“We’ve had a great time and been well looked after, our guide Anna has been first class, I loved Kynren and Beamish was very good. Kynren was my highlight; I’d heard a lot about it and it exceeded my expectations.”

Paul Napier, Surrey Theatregoers

It was the highlight of the weekend for many in our group and my high expectations were exceeded, even if we were all wearing ponchos. Kynren usually has several shows across Saturday evenings between July and September and has exciting developments in the pipeline, so what this space.

A glimpse of Durham City and then Beamish Museum

Our final day started with a trip through Durham City where the new coach park was pointed out and we got to spy the cathedral and castle in the distance. We didn’t spend any time in the city but with it being so close to everything we visited, it’s an obvious itinerary addition for groups.

Then to our last stop: Beamish, The Living Museum of the North. I have always wanted to visit and what a place it is. I cannot imagine anyone going and not being bowled over by it, regardless of age. I would recommend the best part of a day to experience the sights, sounds and smells (even tastes), of the past. There is free entry for GTOs and coach drivers and reduced rates for groups of 15 or more.

“Beamish was the highlight for me. I didn’t know anything about the north but now I want to come back and bring customers.”

Isabelle Dudley, Three Star Coaches

We spent time exploring the 1900s town, wandering in and out of homes and shops. It was incredible; I have never been anywhere like it. History is all around you, from a 1950s hairdressers (yes, you can get a retro hairdo), to a bakery, pub and Suffragettes demonstration in the 1900s Town. There was so much more to see, such as the 1940s Farm, the 1900s Pit Village and the Colliery.

Like everywhere else, the team at Beamish Museum were so pleased to see us, to tell us how much they love welcoming groups, to explain the service and options available - that was the case all weekend. Yes, Durham loves groups and I can’t think of one reason not to take yours, but a million why you should.

A few more photos from our brilliant Reader Club fam weekend…

“We’ve done a huge amount, with visits to Raby Castle, The Auckland Project and Kynren. Raby Castle was the highlight for me, and Beamish is a ‘must go’.”

Sue Shapland, Exmoor Extroverts